One of our traveling companions mentioned that x years ago in England (I’m half-remembering she said “ten,” but am not confident), you couldn’t even GET drip coffee. Now apparently you can, but I don’t know if we encountered that option, because I was so busy ordering the widely-available-and-not-expensive cappuccinos simply left and right. Sometimes the server would ask if I wanted chocolate powder on it, and sometimes they would just add it automatically.
I learned on this trip that an “Americano” coffee is an espresso watered down with hot water. My understanding is that this was an earlier attempt to simulate the drip coffee Americans were accustomed to, before drip was available, which apparently it is now, not that I looked, because I had not realized it was an interesting thing to look for. One tactful description said something about how an Americano was “the delicious flavor of espresso” but “less intense.”
At the hotel breakfasts, it was French-press coffee, the little pot delivered to the table; some hotels offered Americano coffee as an alternative. There were two-person pots and one-person pots; I would say the two-person pot was the amount of coffee I wanted for my one person. My sister-in-law and I found we needed to strategize to get as much coffee as we were used to: either we would drink a cup in the hotel room before coming down to breakfast, or we would get a coffee at our first tour stop after breakfast. One of our hotel rooms had a Nespresso machine, and Paul got into the lovely, lovely, can-we-import-that habit of making me an espresso as soon as I started waking up, and bringing it to me while I was still in bed. I would check email on my phone and sip my little espresso.

I did not drink much tea. I know: I should have! I should have! I’d thought I WOULD; I’m disappointed that I didn’t! But it turns out that if I am offered coffee or tea, I find it difficult to choose tea. I find it difficult every single time. Even when I ordered “a cream tea” (a scone with clotted cream and jam, plus tea or coffee), I went for the coffee option. The only time I drank tea was when we Went For Tea (like, with the tiered trays and so forth); then I ordered Earl Grey. If we ever go back to England, I am going to COMMIT to drinking more tea, if only so that I can SAY I drank lots of tea.
Many, many people told us ahead of time that in England you can’t get ice in your drinks and/or can’t get as much ice as you’re used to. I wanted to offer a personal report, but I am having trouble remembering. I don’t think I ordered soda a single time while we were there; when we asked for water, I don’t think it ever came with ice, but actually I am not completely sure.
I was sometimes puzzled by water choices: we would ask for it at a restaurant, and the server would say “Sparkling, still, or tap?” Well, let’s see. I know what sparkling is, and I WOULD know what still was, except that they offered tap, so now I’m not sure. My guess was that if I said “still,” it would be bottled and I would see it on the bill, and if I said “tap” it would be free, but I did not do enough testing to draw a firm conclusion.

I see no ice
Two of our nights in England, we went to a pub within walking distance of our hotel; going to a pub for drinks was one of my England Trip Goals. I had never been to a bar, let alone a pub, so there was some learning. I knew what “a tab” was, but not how to start or manage or pay one. I knew about people “buying rounds,” but didn’t know how to do that, or how to make it come out right, or how to stop caring about it coming out right. I felt like the most sensible arrangement would be for everyone to pay for their own drinks so no one has to keep mental track of anything while tipsy and everyone can make their own financial decisions in re beer vs cocktails and so forth—but once someone buys a round, there’s no stopping it and you have to join in.
Even though I found pub-round etiquette uncomfy and incompatible with my natural-born temperament, I enjoyed going to the pubs and would want to do that again the next time. And I DID like how “buying a round” made it easier to add snacks to the table that everyone could share: if I’m buying this round, and I also get some chips (I MEAN CRISPS), then it’s clearer that those are for everyone to eat, not just for me to eat. They’re part of the round.
One night we had dinner at a pub, and wanted to order a beer with my meal but didn’t know how. The server brought food menus but no drink menus. At the table next to us, I heard someone say “Do you have a dry white wine?” and the server said “Yes; small, medium, or large pour?” But…how did the person ordering it know how much it would cost, then? Or what sizes small/medium/large were? And wouldn’t you want to know what all the drink options were, rather than asking individually if each option existed? Well, I am sure there must have been a way to do it, because I saw other people drinking beer and wine, but I couldn’t figure it out. Obviously I should have asked—but by the time I realized it wouldn’t be intuitive, it felt too late.
Speaking of pubs: the legal drinking age in England is 18. The twins are 18, so I told them to bring their licenses if they wanted to try a legal drink in England. BUT ALSO: there seemed to be approximately zero carding. At one restaurant, the ordering was done using a device at the table, and we ordered two hard ciders, one for Elizabeth and one for William. Then I went to use the bathroom, and the drinks were delivered to the table of kids while I was gone—and no one checked the kids’ IDs. On another occasional, William ordered a beer; he was not carded. One restaurant brought everyone a little glass of champagne, including one for Henry, age 16; no one even ASKED how old anyone was.
In the U.S., I am more accustomed to card-everyone policies, or AT LEAST to card-everyone-who-looks-under-40 policies. Businesses can get into serious trouble if they sell alcohol to anyone not old enough to drink it. When the kids were trying to buy us a bottle of champagne for our anniversary, the store wouldn’t sell it to William, age 22 and therefore allowed to buy alcohol, because Elizabeth was with him. We wondered if in England there are not such severe penalties for violations, so the enforcement doesn’t have to be so rigid. Or maybe with a lower drinking age, there just aren’t anywhere near as many violations to worry about.




